As a preface, Bamako is a large and rapidly growing city that is home to roughly one million people. It is lively, although dirty because while people don't really produce much garbage the items of trash end up in the street along the main thoroughfares.
(Lack of)Conceptions of Time and Space in Bamako, Mali:
There are many examples of the contrasting chaotic nature of the city and ultra-relaxed and informal mannerisms of people in Mali. For example, transportation: while there are taxis here, the common form of public transportation is the soutrama, a green oversize van out of which a man shouts the names of streets and stops along an impromptu route. The soutrama has no preset stops or schedule, you stand and flag one down as it zooms by. The fare is 150 francs each way, or less than 50 cents. Soutramas move very quickly, and it's how most of us get to school every day. Also the streets are not clearly, or ever marked, and somehow seemingly non-existent landmarks define the address. For example, my local soutrama stop is, translated into English, 'bakery street' because there is supposedly a bakery under construction nearby although currently it is a pile of brickwork. Our school in Point Sud is located at the 'two boutiques' stop, although since the entire street is paved with boutiques on both sides I'm not sure which two are THE two boutiques.
Different notions of time and space are also a strong part of family life in Bamako and of Mali generally. Random people are always coming in and out of the house to 'causer un peu' (stop and chat a little), and in turn I can just go and visit the neighbors too anytime and sit and talk and drink tea (its this very strong and super sweet tea served in shot glasses). While I miss Carleton the change of pace here is definitely nice.
On Being a Toubabou:
FYI 'toubabou' means white person. Kids love to chant it when you walk by and shake your hand as if you are somehow fascinating. Generally everyone is incredibly friendly (although some people are pushy in trying to sell their wares to you along the street). At the same time, being white and especially female means that kids and adults definitely take notice. I make an effort to greet people in Bambara (the language in mali besides french) which usually elicits a positive and boisterous response. I love how people laugh here.
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